Installation Guide.

STOP!.. Read the whole guide before installation.

After reading and there is any step that you do not understand you will most likely ruin your kit.

Do not test any part of your conversion kit until it is 100% complete!

Warranty, tube battery and trouble shooting guide information can be found at the bottom of this page

Step 1. Opening your box

Inside your box you will find your hub motor (direct drive or the mini geared motor) and a small box containing all of your parts.

Step 2. Parts Identification.

1 Thumb Throttle. (We have changed the design to a newer thumb throttle than is in the picture.)

2 Electronic speed controller

3 Brakes with motor cutoff switch

4 Spare grips

5 Wiring to battery (if you have a complete kit including batteries these will already be wired for you)

 

 

 

Step 2. Continued (parts identification) And of course your Hub Motor

NOTICE.. You must use the screws provided with the kit for your disk brake. Remove the plastic ring on the motor, replace it with your disk brake then use the Allen bolts you removed from the motor.

The ones on your bicycle may be too long and ruin your kit.

500W750W Direct Drive Hub Motor. Comes in all sizes front and rear. 23 Mph at 36V.

 

 

Step 3. Disconnect the brakes.

Step 3. Continued

Push the calipers together and disconnect the brakes. If you have disk brakes you can skip to the next step.

Step 4. Turn your bike upside down and remove your existing wheel. Remove the tire and tube and install it on the new hub motor.

If you are not familiar with changing tires/tubes on bicycles we highly suggest having a bicycle shop install the kit for you.

Step 5. Install the new hub motor and tighten the nuts snugly. Do not over tighten as it may push the forks through the shoulder (small notch) of the axle.

Note.. If you have a disk brake remove it from your bike, remove the screws and plastic retainer. This plastic retainer is trash and only meant to be used to hold the screws. Install the disc brake using the screws you removed from the motor.

install it on the hub motor before installing the wheel Using the screws on the motor.. Note.. You cannot install ANY hub motor on alloy forks as they are CAST aluminum and WILL break at the dropouts. We recommend installing torque arms on all installations as a precautionary measure.

 Simply check the dropouts with a magnet, if the magnet sticks you are good to go. Otherwise you will need to install a set of steel/Chrome molly forks or use a rear kit.

Rear kits are fine on aluminum frames as they are not CAST aluminum

Depending on your forks they may need to be hand spread a bit due to settling on the original axle.

 

  • note... The wires coming from the motor will be on the RIGHT hand side if you were sitting on the bike.

Step 6.

Flip the bike back upright.

  • Remove the grips

  • remove the brakes

  • remove the shifter

Note on removing grips.

These can sometimes be hard to remove, sometimes they can simply be twisted off. Another method is to get a screwdriver up under the grips and spray hairspray under them and twist them off. We use hairspray rather than a lubricant as the lubricant will stay on the handlebars and not dry when you replace them causing them to easily twist while riding.

Note on removing the brakes.

You may need to release the cantilever brakes on front and rear. On the brake lever there is a barrel and a lock nut, both with a notch in them. Align the notch with the notch on the brake lever, pull the cable out and remove the small round ball attached to the end of the brake cable.

Step 7.

 

  • Install the throttle. Tighten it down just enough to keep it from moving freely but enough so that you can still move it.

  • Reinstall your shifter. Tighten same as the throttle.

  • Install the AmpedBikes brakes. Tighten same as throttle

  • reinstall your grips.

     

Now.. Sit on your bike and hand adjust your brakes, shifter and throttle so that they are in the most comfortable position for you.

After you have them in a comfortable position go ahead and tighten them down snugly.

Step 8.

Step 9.

  • Once you have all your cables ran cleanly to the back of the bike, go ahead and zip them tight.

  • Find a good location to mount your speed controller so that it will Get well ventilated and not overheat. Make 100% sure that your speed controller is mounted in a well ventilated area. I prefer to put all the wiring a small under seat bag but alternatively you can mount under your rack if you have the clearance between the tire. Another location to mount it is on the bars leading from your rear rack.

 

#4 above is a speed and watt governor. when these are connected together the bike will run 14-16 mph. This is for our European customers.They are normally black and white. We have been updating our connectors but these small connectors on the back of the speed controller  (normally black and white) as well as all of the connectors will only connect to a matching connecter.

Step 11. After making your connections, zip tie everything tight, cut off your zip ties. Make sure all of your wiring is clean and hidden as possible.

As with All E-Bikes, use common sense. Do not hop curbs. Especially if you are using an SLA pack or you will break your rack. We shouldn't need to go into physics but a 25 LB SLA pack going off of a curb will weigh close to 500 lbs at the impact. Avoid potholes and treat it like a car.

Connect your battery last (it will spark as the capacitors are charging) and give it a spin! For the first week or so check your axle nuts, connections and spokes. The spokes may seat deeper from the twist force and may need to be tightened. Be sure to check axle bolts often as the torque will want to move them until they seat as well.

 

 

 

We always suggest using one of our torque arms on ALL installations to prevent the axle from spinning inside of the dropouts.

If there is ANY part of this manual you do not understand you should have it installed professionally or you may risk ruining the kit or harming yourself.  We use very thick spokes. These cannot be gauged by spoke tension meter. After a week or so of riding your spokes may seat themselves deeper becoming loose. Feel by hand for loose spokes and turn them counter clockwise 1/4 turn at a time until they feel the same as the rest of the spokes. If this is not done you will break spokes as they will be too loose and this is also not covered by warranty.

 

Warranty Information.

Warranty..

Kits without batteries are covered for 60 Days as we are not able to be there to connect the battery or wiring the bike.

Complete kits with batteries are covered for 6 months.

Your kit is covered bumper for 60 days or 6 months . These kits are flawless and will last you a lifetime. What we do not cover is over voltage, we do not cover if you spin out the axles inside of your dropouts. We do not cover if you burn the speed controller by connecting backwards. We will not cover your speed controller if the fet's are burnt due to not pedaling with the kit on hills. We will not cover return shipping damaged. Speed controllers must be mounted so that they are well ventilated. Speed controllers along with the other electrical components are not 100% waterproof and water intrusion is not covered under warranty. We will not warranty any abuse to our kits. We will not warranty a kit that has been rewired, over tightened, or any other misuse. We stand 100% behind our products. If in fact you connected your battery backward and fried the speed controller we can tell immediately. So please if you have done this be honest and we will work with you. We purchased a small handheld computer to connect to the speed controllers to read the eprom in order to see the last voltage it was run at. If it had failed, what caused it to fail. Any kits may be returned within 30 days for any reason. They must be in perfect condition and there will be a 15% restock fee in order to allow us to re-open, retest and repackage. Any and all returns that are under warranty will be reimbursed for no more than original shipping costs.

All kits are bench tested as a complete unit with all of the components in your box. We test each and every kit as a whole under no load for 20 minutes and under heavy load for 20 minutes We are unable to be there when the kit is installed so it is up to you to understand the high torque involved at the dropouts and install them correctly. These kits are over designed to put up with the harshest conditions and are completely over engineered.

The motors are tank tested and designed to be run completely submerged while running for 6 days! I don't suggest using it as a boat motor, but if the odd situation came around you can feel confident that it could lol...

Also these kits are capable of running at higher voltages with no modification. Although we will not warranty anything over 36V. At 36V it runs at the correct and safe speed that it was meant for. If you are running at 72V and fry your controller please do not try and return to me as we will know immediately upon opening the speed controller what happened to it.

.If for any reason you do not feel confident about installing our kit then you should have it professionally installed as you may harm your kit, you may harm yourself. All kits must be shipped back with all original connectors for any warranty work. If the kit has been altered in any way it is not covered by warranty. AmpedBikes will not pay for any shipping costs unless it was an actual component failure. We have had less than 10 in 5 years returned that had actually had a manufacturing failure. last but not least if you are honest about a failure we will give a large discount on parts. If you are dishonest about a failure you will be charged labor and parts. All parts must be shipped back as a complete unit (whole kit for testing if it is not working). The bottom line is be honest if you ruin a part of your kit and we will send you parts at cost. Also when when you plug the battery in it will Always spark. This is charging or discharging the capacitors in the speed controller.

 

Troubleshooting:

99% of the time any problem with the kit is simply a misaligned connection.

1. motor is shuddering, or will not start without first rolling the wheel. This is caused by a misaligned hall sensor connection. (the small wires coming from the motor) Check all connections for a bent or misaligned connector.

2. lights are on the throttle but it will not move. Disconnect the brakes from the speed controller and try again. There is a micro switch embedded into the brakes and it may be stuck in the off position. Also check all connections for bent or misaligned connectors. This is also a symptom of a burnt out speed controller.

3. Motor stops working for no apparent reason. A connection may have come loose, the micro switch inside of the brake handle may be stuck. If you have purchased a Chinese Lifepo4 battery the BMS may have tripped. If you are using our tube battery please refer to the tube battery installation guide. If your wheel is rubbing on the brakes or elsewhere this will cause thermal overrun and burn out the speed controller (not covered by warranty)

4. Lights on the throttle will always be on when you are stopped. They will dim when you are on a hill. At a stop they will show you how charged the battery is.

5. If the battery is connected backwards to the speed controller it will instantly ruin the speed controller. Be 100% sure that if you purchase a 3rd party battery, that the polarity is correct before connecting to the speed controller or this will again instantly burn out the speed controller. This happens quite often as many customers purchase Chinese batteries that use brown and blue leads rather than red and black as we do un the USA. If you are not certain contact your vendor as burning out the speed controller is not covered under warranty.

 

Tube Battery Installation:

1. Turn the power on at the handlebar button.

2. Turn the tube battery power button to the on position.

3. Insert and screw on the power cable and connect to the speed controller.

If at anytime you are not getting power or the LED's on the battery are not working this means that the BMS has tripped. Simply leave power switches on the battery and handlebar in the on position and unplug then re-plug the power cable. This will reset the Battery management system inside of the battery. If this method does not work, leave all switches on and plug in the charger, this will also reset the BMS.

The power switch on the battery is only for charging and transporting.

Do not use it to turn your kit on or off. The handlebar power button is designed for this purpose.